Designs In Glass   Lake Glass Studio...Stained Glass 48 George Drive, Lake Ariel, PA 18436 570-698-6244

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Frequently Asked Questions

Here is a collection of common questions we have compiled .If you have a question that hasn't been answered here be sure to contact us at i nfo@lakeglass.com and we'll get back to you.

1. How long has Designs In Glass been in business?

Designs In Glass was established in 1985 and is one of the longest running full service stained glass businesses in the Scranton, Pennsylvania area. For more information about Designs In Glass go to About Us.

2. How much will it cost me to have a stained glass piece made?

That depends on several factors. If you're thinking about commissioning a piece of glass art, there are some things you need to know about the commission process, in order to fully understand how to select the best stained glass studio to create your custom artwork, and how to best estimate the overall cost of the project. Go to the Commissions page of this web site to find out more.

3. Do you repair stained glass?

We repair and restore damaged and/or antique stained glass art works. One of the great properties of stained glass panels or lamps is that they are sectionalized with individual glass pieces, allowing for the replacement of a damaged piece of glass. Often a treasured stained glass piece, marred by glass breaks, can be restored to its original splendor. We approach each restoration with great care and regard for your prized possession. We recommend a restoration, whenever the piece of glass art has significant sentimental value in addition to the monetary investment. Sometimes, it is more economical to replace the art with a new piece. Let us consult with you on the nature of the repair and help you evaluate whether or not you want to invest in its restoration. Call us to discuss the nature of the repair, stop by with the item or send us an e-mail to info@lakeglass.com attaching a digital photo of the damage to your item, so that we can better estimate the costs for repair.

4. What's the difference between a copper foil and leaded piece?

Copper Foil is a method used in building stained glass that evolved from techniques developed by Louis Comfort Tiffany just after the turn of the twentieth century. This method utilizes a copper tape with an adhesive backing that is applied to the edges of the glass pieces. Since hot lead will not adhere to glass itself, the copper foild acts at the medium to form a channel when the hot lead cools. A leaded glass piece is created using lead came, a piece of lead channel that is either shaped like a U or an H and holds the glass pieces together to form a panel.

5. Using lead came, zinc, brass, copper or copper foil, how to decide?

It depends on the design of your stained glass piece. If the design is complex, with lots of intricate details and curved shaped pieces then copper foil is probably the best way to go. If you have a design that is primarily geometric, with lots of straight lines and sharp edges then a metal came is ideal not only for its aesthetic beauty, but also for its structural advantages. The hard metal cames-zinc, brass and copper-are best used on larger geometric designs or in cabinets and doors. Or a combination of both might be desirable. In every instance, aesthetic judgments must be made that will influence your decision on what materials to use.

6. Why use metal came?

Zinc, brass and copper can add a lot of aesthetic beauty to the overall design of a particular stained glass creation. But the most important reason for choosing a metal came is because of the structural support it provides on larger projects. Again, it might also be used in combination with foilled sections.

7. How should I install my stained glass?

There are many things that influence how a piece of stained glass is to be installed in a particular space. Do you want the piece to be permanently installed or do you plan to take the glass art with you when you leave your current residence or place of business? Do you want to create total privacy in the space or do you want more light coming through? Is the piece being installed in a fixed window or does the window need to open? Once these questions have been answered effectively we can help you determine how to best install your stained glass. Just stop by, call or e-mail us and we can discuss your project with you.

8. Should I be using oil in my glasscutter? Why should I use an oil-fed glasscutter?

Oil fed glasscutters are really the best available. They come with a carbide steel wheel, which lasts longer and the oil helps to extend the lifespan of the carbide steel wheel. The oil in no way improves your glass cutting skill. It serves only as a lubricant to keep the carbide steel wheel from wearing. Some of our artisans choose not to use any oil in their cutters and it does not hamper their glass cutting abilities in any way. If you do use oil in your oil fed glasscutter it is not necessary to fill the entire chamber with glasscutter oil. All you need is enough to keep the carbide steel wheel moistened by the oil. A little bit of glass cutting oil goes along way so don't overfill the chamber.

9. Why do I need to stretch my lead came?

Lead is a soft metal, perfect for use in stained glass because it can be bent and shaped to follow the curves of your pattern pieces quite nicely. However, if lead is used before it is stretched it can become misshapen by the weight of the glass. When we stretch our lead it aligns all the molecules in the metal and strengthens the lead came, stiffening the channel so that it will become more structurally sound. We get lots of repairs in where the lead has become misshapen and no longer holds the glass due to the fact that when it was built the lead had not been stretched.

10. How do I know if I am using too much or too little flux when soldering?

If you are using too much flux when you solder your solder seams will bubble and gurgle like a volcanic eruption, hissing and popping as you solder. Back off on the amount of flux your using and your solder volcano will disappear. If you are using too little flux the solder will not flow evenly, it will be stiff like egg whites and inconsistent. Try adding a little more flux and you will be able to better control the flow of your solder, creating a more consistent-looking solder seam.

11. How do I get better at my soldering skills?

Practice, practice, practice! The only way you get better at soldering is by practicing your soldering techniques. Over time you will become adept at creating fluid even lines, adding to the overall level of craftmanship to your piece.

12. How can I improve my glass cutting skills?

Again, practice is the key. The only way you get better at cutting glass is by sticking with it.We welcome anyone to stop by the studio to observe or practice. You need to develop the correct pressure to score glass and there are glasses that tend to be more difficult than others. Start with "machine made" glass for your beginning projects, it tends to be more consistent and easier to score than hand made art glass. We have large selections available in our studio.

13. How do I achieve even and bright patinas?

Copper patina and black patina are chemical plating processes that change the color of your solder seams and/or metal came to either the look of copper or the look of bronze. These chemicals, especially copper patina, are sensitive to impurities and react to other agents that may be on your solder seams and/or metal cames, including the oils in your hands. Therefore it is critical that you clean, clean, clean! We encourage you to keep your stained glass art very clean while you are working on it. The minute you have finished soldering for the day, clean your glass art of any flux residue using either a flux/patina remover or warm water with a mixture of baking soda (which will neutralize the acid in the flux) and mild detergent. Before you use a patina it is critical that you clean all your solder seams and/or metal came. Do not use steel wool and your seams before using your patina. Steel wool fragments can be left behind and the patina will grab onto them and dirty up the look of the patina. Be sure to use a clean soft cloth or toothbrush when applying the patina to the metal seams. And be sure to remove the excess patina liquid from the surface of the glass using a q-tip or a paper towel. Do not remove the patina from the metal seams while cleaning your glass. Your copper patina will be bright shiny copper and your black patina will be consistently bronzed in tone when you have cleaned your metal surfaces properly.

14. What's the difference between 60/40 and 50/50 solder?

Solder is made of a mix of tin and lead and most of the time it is made from recycled tin and lead. The 60/40 solder refers to the ratio of tin and lead used in manufacturing a particular solder-60% tin and 40% lead were used in making 60/40 solder. In 50/50 solder 50% tin and 50% lead were used in making the solder. The different types of solder work differently. 60/40 solder stays liquid longer and therefore gives the glass artist more time to work with a solder seam and create a more consistent look. 50/50 solder hardens more rapidly and therefore works well on 3-dimensional work like stained glass lamps, jewelry boxes, kaleidoscopes, etc. to fill in the larger gaps created by 3-dimensional joints.

15 . Which type of flux works best-liquid, gel or paste?

The flux that works best for you is the one that works the best. We like a fairly liquid flux. Since some fluxes can be rather irritating, a consideration might be one that has less irritating properties. We stock a large variety of flux products to meet your preferences. Also, we can special order any of the gels and pastes if you prefer.

16 . How do you determine what size copper foil to use on a piece?

The standard depth of a piece of stained glass is 1/8" thick. However, hand-made glass is often thicker in some places, thinner in others. And heavily textured glass can be inconsistent in this area. Since copper foil is used to wrap around the edge of each of your stained glass pieces you want to choose the size of your foil based on the thickness of your glass, and the aesthetic choices you want to make regarding the size of your solder seams. 7/32 foil is the standard size used for 1/8" thick glass with 4/32 of the foil against the spine of the glass and 1.5/32 on each side of your glass piece. That way when the copper foiled glass pieces come together for soldering you should end up with a solder seam that is no larger than 1/8".

17. What's the best way to clean my stained glass? After you have finished building your stained glass rinse it off in a sink of warm water filled with mild soapy water andbaking soda. Gently wipe away all excess chemicals, dirt and grim using your fingers or a soft brush. Rinse in warm water of the same temperature. You do not want really hot or really cold water-to avoid sudden shifts in the temperature of the glass, which can cause breakage. Dry well. Apply a stained glass polishing compound such as "Kem-O-Pro Finishing Compound", following the manufacturer's directions. This is very similar to the carnoba wax used in automobile waxing in the past. It will make the glass sparkle and shine brilliantly, and create a protective coating over your glass art that will make regular dusting/clean-up a breeze. All you will need is a feather duster.

 

last updated March 4, 2004